Nestling in the Manifold Valley below the Limestone slopes of Bunster Hill lies the tiny Staffordshire village of Ilam. It comprises of several farms, a few houses, school, an old Hall and gardens but perhaps the oldest part of the village is the church. Known as the Church of the Holy Cross it has its foundations on ground where once stood a Saxon church and where there are still two Saxon Crosses in the churchyard.
With its distinctive ‘saddleback’ roof to the tower it is an imposing building. Within the church, there is a Norman Font but its construction, though much modified over the years, still reflects the Norman style of architecture.
One major addition to the church is the rather majestic mausoleum Chapel for members of the Pike Watts family. It is a dramatic sculpture (by Francis Chantrey) and we are told that it depicts David Pike Watts when on his deathbed blessing his daughter Mary and her 3 children……..a very grand memorial.
Church of the Holy Cross should perhaps read Holy Crosses as there are many old carved stone crosses in the church grounds and as mentioned earlier even some Saxon Crosses and other stones.
Although not as old as many, one stone seemed to be several 100 miles away from where I would have expected it. It is a large carved cross very much in the style of Celtic Crosses found in Scotland. Investigation found that this was a memorial to Rev. Richard Mackarness, one time Bishop of Argyll and The Isles, so a fitting tribute to his ancestry.
Like many old halls Ilam Hall owes its continued existence to a Victorian Industrialist. Although there is much evidence of a manor House of some size on the site it was a Jesse Russell who purchased the estate in 1809 and completely ‘rebuilt’ the Hall. Since then of course time, death, neglect and debts have taken there toll of the once exceptionally grand Ilam Hall, what we have remaining whilst large is still only a shadow of its former self.
The once Fine Terraces can still be discovered in the grounds and thanks to the National Trust, who now have the care of the Estate, the sumptuous Italian Style Gardens are coming back to life.
Jesse Russell and his wife also rebuilt the village adopting a very unusual style. Sometimes referred to a Cuckoo Clock Houses or alternatively Swiss or Alpine style. The centrepiece is perhaps the School (which is still the village Primary to this day) closely followed by the Village Cross much in the style of an ‘Eleanor Cross’ but built to commemorate Mary Pike Watts, Jesse Russell’s wife
The Hall stands above the River Manifold which at this point is fast flowing but less than a mile upstream it some times ‘disappears’. Just below the Hall is a spring where some of the water that has flowed underground bubbles to the surface, a natural spring….so perhaps that is why the Hall was originally built in this location. Like many Victorian gardens it was a feature built into the ‘perambulation walks’ that were set up to make exploration of the grounds more relaxing.
As a further reminder that this area is steeped in history, beside one of these walks, is what was known locally as the ‘Battle Stone’. Found under one of the old cottages when the village was being rebuilt, it has carvings much like some of the crosses found near the Church. It is said to date to the times when these lands were fought over between the Saxons and the Danes.
Ilam can be found on the Staffordshire and Derbyshire border very near to Ashbourne and Dovedale so makes a great day out. Enjoy.
5th March
DAVID OAKES - IMAGES. 