The Medieval town of Lichfield (Staffordshire) is well worth exploring at any opportunity and that opportunity came as a bit of a surprise yesterday afternoon. There has been a settlement at Lichfield since early man walked the earth so has a interesting, complex and often violent and bloody history……in fact one of the derivations for the name Lichfield is ‘Field of the Dead’.
We were passing through heading back towards home, it mas mid afternoon and the sun was still shining, only just, as it was quickly sinking below the roof line of the town. The three Spires of Lichfield Cathedral stark against the blue sky across Minster Pool, so we had to stop and renew our acquaintance with the Cathedral….
The location of the Minster has been a religious site since 669 when Saint Chad first built a monastery here. That event is recorded in early writing but there are suggestions that it had been a place of religious worship of sorts prior to then. What ever its origins the Minster as it now stands has been a dominant feature of the town for nearly two millennia and not just important to the town (now designated a Cathedral City) but as the centre of Ecclesiastical matters for the ancient of territories of Mercia.
The town developed round the original Minster and indeed the whole towns ‘street plan’ is a geometric pattern designed to enhance the minster and town. As a result, which ever approach you take to the Cathedral, it is through narrow street of houses, many like here in Cathedral Close having close ties to the Cathedral…..
The two West Towers with spire tops are not quite as tall as the third centre spire but still dramatic. The West Front is an incredible tribute to the stonemasons art and craft, lavishly decorate with sculpture figures to the very top of each tower…..
Three enormous Oak carved doors seem dwarfed by the high majesty of the building they provide access too.
It is indeed a wonder that the town, let alone the Cathedral, is still standing. Its violent past has seen Romans, Vikings, Henry VIII and perhaps worst of all the English Civil War. It is perhaps not surprising that the Cathedral suffered its worst damage in the Civil Wars as the community, was like most of England, bitterly divided in there loyalties. The Cathedral support the King (The Royalists) whilst the majority of the towns peoples the Parliamentarians.
We had restricted access to the interior as a School Choir Service was being celebrated. The winter light by this time was fading fast (so excuse the following images as the ISO push was at its limits) but I do hope the following gives you some impressions of the interior size, style and feel of the Cathedral…..
The High Alter from the Choir Stalls
Looking towards the Nave and Screen from the Choir Stalls.
Saint Chad in the Lady Chapel
The Lady Chapel may look just a little austere at the moment…the windows a little plain! These mammoth arches have been housing since 1803, the very famous Herkenrode Glass. These windows are of Medieval Flemish Painted Glass and rescued from a monastery in what is now Belgium that was being dissolved in Napoleonic troubles. There original date of creation is 1530, incredibly rare and was in desperate need of restoration. So one day (probably many years) we will once again be able to see and enjoy these wonders. It has to be said that these ‘second hand’ Flemish windows were to replace stained glass windows that were destroyed in the conflicts.
A great deal of history has occurred both in front of, as well as behind, these ancient doors….if only they could speak many a tale they would tell. But if you can make a visit you can embark on your own trail of discovery….it is on our ‘To do List’ for the summer when the longer days return.
11th DECEMBER
© David Oakes 2012
DAVID OAKES - IMAGES. 